Common Havanese Behavior Problems and the Instinct Behind Each

General training information. Every dog is an individual; for health or behavior concerns, see your veterinarian.

Most Havanese behavior problems make more sense once you know what the breed was made for. The Havanese began in Cuba, where Purina describes them as pampered lap dogs and companions of the aristocracy. The Westminster Kennel Club calls the breed the national dog of Cuba. A dog shaped for generations to stay close to people will often struggle when it is left alone or ignored.

This guide covers the Havanese problems owners report most often. For each one you get the instinct that likely drives it, how to prevent it, and a step-by-step plan. It ends with when to call a professional. Every dog is an individual, so treat breed traits as a starting point, not a script.

What the Breed Sources Say About Temperament

The United Kennel Club describes the Havanese as friendly, playful, alert and intelligent. It also says the breed is quiet and gentle but enjoys rowdy play. The Westminster Kennel Club rates trainability at 4 out of 5 and barking at 4 out of 5, and energy at 3 out of 5 (its own scale, not the AKC scale). Vetstreet says the bark is not yappy but sounds like it comes from a bigger dog.

On challenges, Purina says the breed does not like to be left alone and can be chatty and vocal. Those two points shape most of the plans below. The good news is that Vetstreet calls the breed easy to train, and says to start the day the puppy comes home.

I could not confirm how Havanese rate with children or with other dogs, so check with the Havanese Club of America or a reputable breeder if that matters to your household.

Materials You Will Need

Small, soft, pea-sized treats your dog loves, and a few higher-value ones for hard moments
A comfortable mat or bed that becomes the dog's "place"
A baby gate or exercise pen for a safe, short-term confinement area
Chew toys and food puzzles for quiet independent time
A well-fitted harness and a standard leash
A timer and a notebook, or a phone note, to track progress
A pet camera or a phone you can set to record, so you can see what happens when you leave

Skip anything that works through pain or fear. That means shock, prong and choke collars, and any form of punishment. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recommends reward-based training, and these plans follow that approach.

Before You Start: Rule Out Health Causes

Behavior can change because of how a dog feels. The Havanese Club of America lists hearing loss, eye disorders, orthopedic problems such as patellar luxation and hip dysplasia, heart disease and thyroid disorders among the breed's health concerns. A dog that ignores your cues may not hear them. A dog that avoids stairs or jumping may be sore.

If a behavior appears suddenly or gets worse, book a veterinary exam first. Your veterinarian is the right person to diagnose or treat any health problem. Do not try to sort it out yourself or give any supplement or medication.

Step 1: Separation Distress

The instinct behind it

A companion dog is bred to be near its people. Purina notes the breed dislikes being left alone, and separation issues are listed among its known challenges. Crying, pacing, chewing or house soiling when you leave may reflect real distress, not spite.

Prevention

Teach independence early, in tiny doses. Give your puppy short, pleasant stretches in a gated area while you are home and in sight. Hand over a chew, walk to the next room for a few seconds, and return before any fuss starts. Keep arrivals and departures low-key.

Training plan

Build the safe spot. Feed meals and give chews on the mat or in the pen so it predicts good things.
Practice with you in view. Ask for a settle on the mat, reward, and step away a few feet. Return and reward calm behavior.
Add distance and doors. Move to another room, then close a door for a second or two. Increase by small steps only while your dog stays relaxed.
Practice real departures. Pick up keys, put on shoes, then sit back down. Do this many times so the cues lose their sting.
Leave for seconds, then minutes. Give a food puzzle as you go. Return before your dog gets upset. Record a few sessions to see where the stress starts.

If your dog is already panicking when you leave, the plan has to start below that threshold. That may mean not leaving the dog alone at all for a while and arranging coverage with a family member or a dog sitter.

Step 2: Excessive Barking

The instinct behind it

The UKC describes the breed as alert, and the Westminster Kennel Club rates barking at 4 out of 5. An alert companion that wants to be part of the family will announce visitors, sounds and sights, and may bark simply to get your attention.

Prevention

Do not reward the bark by handing over what the dog wants every time. Reward quiet moments early and often. Limit a window or door view that sets off barking, and give your dog plenty of mental work so it is not looking for a job.

Training plan

Thank, then redirect. When your dog barks at a trigger, say a calm "thank you" and walk over. Do not yell, since shouting often sounds like you are joining in.
Mark and reward quiet. The instant your dog pauses, say "yes" and give a treat. Gradually wait for slightly longer pauses.
Teach a cue for an alternative. Send your dog to the mat for a treat when the doorbell rings. Practice with a recorded or staged doorbell until the mat becomes the default.
Teach "speak" and "quiet". Some owners find that putting barking on cue helps them control it. Reward the bark, add the word, then reward the silence that follows.
Meet the need. Purina suggests about half an hour of daily exercise with varied walks. A dog that gets enough movement and sniffing time often has less spare energy for barking, though results vary by dog.

Step 3: Shadowing and Clinginess

The instinct behind it

Following you from room to room is what a lap dog does. It is rarely a problem on its own. It becomes one when the dog cannot cope when you are out of reach, or when it demands attention nonstop.

Prevention

Make sure your dog regularly spends time on its own bed or in its pen, even when you are home. Give affection freely, but not always on demand.

Training plan

Teach a "go to your mat" cue. Reward your dog for settling on the mat while you move around the room.
Reward calm, not following. Each time your dog chooses to lie down on its own, drop a treat by its paws.
Add the gate. Practice short stints with a gate between you, chew in hand. Build up slowly.
Ignore pushy demands, reward polite ones. If your dog paws or barks for attention, wait for a sit or a pause, then give attention.

Step 4: Jumping Up and Rowdy Play

The instinct behind it

The UKC says the breed enjoys rowdy play. A friendly, playful dog that wants to greet you at face height will jump unless it learns a better way. Small dogs are often allowed to get away with this because it feels harmless, which teaches the dog that jumping works.

Prevention

Everyone in the household should respond the same way. If one person cuddles a jumping dog and another scolds it, the dog gets mixed messages.

Training plan

Decide on the greeting. Pick one: sit, or four paws on the floor.
Remove the reward for jumping. Turn away calmly, or step back, the moment paws leave the floor.
Reward the right move. The moment all four paws are on the floor, give a treat and calm attention.
Practice with helpers. Ask friends to follow the same rules. Use a leash if your dog gets too excited.
Give play an outlet. Schedule short play sessions with a toy, with start and stop signals, so rowdy energy has a home.

Step 5: Ignoring Cues (Selective Listening)

The instinct behind it

A smart, attentive dog, as the UKC describes the breed, quickly learns when a cue means a reward and when it does not. If your dog responds in the kitchen but not at the park, the problem is usually distraction and practice, not stubbornness.

Prevention and plan

Rule out hearing first. The Havanese Club of America lists hearing loss as a breed concern and mentions BAER hearing testing as recommended for younger dogs. Ask your veterinarian if you suspect a problem.
Keep sessions short. Two or three minutes, a few times a day, keeps a quick learner engaged.
Raise difficulty gradually. Practice in the living room, then the yard, then a quiet street, then busier places.
Pay well. Use better treats when the environment is harder.

For a full foundation in cues, timing and puppy routines, see our complete guide to training a Havanese.

Tips and Common Mistakes

Do not punish distress. Scolding a dog for crying or chewing when left alone adds fear to an already hard situation.
Do not skip the small steps. Jumping from five seconds alone to two hours is the most common reason separation plans stall.
Do not rely on one long walk. Varied walks, sniffing and short training games serve a clever dog better than a single burst of exercise.
Do not give in to the bark. If barking sometimes works, your dog will keep trying.
Do keep records. A short daily note about what your dog did and how long it stayed calm makes progress visible.
Do stay consistent. Every person in the home should use the same cues and rules.

What Results to Expect

With patient, consistent practice, many owners see their dog settle more easily, bark less at everyday triggers and greet people more politely. Progress usually comes in small steps with the occasional setback, and the timeline depends on the dog's age, history and individual temperament. Separation distress in particular can take weeks or months to improve, and it may not resolve fully with home training alone. Treat these plans as a way to improve the odds, not as a promise.

When to Call a Professional

Get help if you see any of these:

Your dog panics, drools, or tries to escape or injure itself when left
Behavior changes suddenly, or you suspect pain, hearing loss or another health issue. Start with your veterinarian
Snapping, growling or biting, especially around food, toys or handling
No improvement after several weeks of consistent, careful practice

Look for a certified trainer who uses reward-based methods, in line with AVSAB guidance. For severe separation distress, anxiety or aggression, ask your veterinarian about a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. A veterinary behaviorist can assess medical and behavioral causes together, and decisions about any medication belong with them. Ask any trainer how they handle unwanted behavior, and walk away from anyone who recommends shock, prong or choke collars, alpha rolls or dominance methods.